tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-45155686940945504742024-02-19T03:35:28.015-08:00Mark's Studio WorkshopIn the apartment or small home workshop: how to create, recycle, build, repair, make, glue, cut, hammer, saw, drill, carve, combine, assemble; and paint, stain, polish, French polish, wax, varnish, oil, refinish, clean or refurbish just about anything for the home.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger12125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4515568694094550474.post-74225375661985893202011-03-06T00:02:00.000-08:002011-03-06T10:09:40.236-08:00The Turn of the Screw, Part One.<div class="Section1"><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan lines-together; page-break-after: avoid;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan lines-together; page-break-after: avoid;"><b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 16pt;">How to Operate a Screwdriver.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan lines-together; page-break-after: avoid;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan lines-together;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">Almost everyone has used a screwdriver at some point in their life. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan lines-together;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan lines-together;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">As simple as the tool seems to be, many find it difficult and awkward to use, and many fail to rotate the recalcitrant screw without bloodshed. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan lines-together;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan lines-together;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">So this article is dedicated to those who approach this simplest of tools with fear and loathing.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan lines-together;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">Consider the tool itself. It is far younger than the axe and hammer in Man the Tool Maker’s inventory by several hundred thousand years. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">It has but three parts, the handle, the shaft, and the tip, or blade. There are no moving parts aside from the tool itself. It is pretty obvious which end to grasp, and the other end will be as far from the grasping hand as the shaft will allow.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">Before getting into the intricacies of the handle, let us first discuss how the tool works, the physics involved and some of the engineering considerations for this tool.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">There is a blade, a shaft, and the handle. The blade comes in many shapes and sizes, but for now let us consider the ordinary flat bladed screwdriver. The wider the blade the more twisting power the screwdriver has because in effect the blade is two levers, each the length of half the diameter of the screw slot which is used to turn the screw. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">Therefore if the only screwdriver available is less than the total width of the slot, place it so that one side of the blade is at the end of the slot. That way the screwdriver will be powering the screw at its maximum torque on the one side.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">The best choice is a blade the same width as the slot. It should fit the slot tightly. Most blade problems come from the condition of the blade. If the blade tip is rounded and eroded (the usual condition), file it flat on both sides, and square across the tip so its edges are sharp. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">A second problem is the hardness of the blade. Soft steel erodes and the blades wear into blunt instruments suited only for damaging the rims of paint cans. Chromium and vanadium added in tiny quantities makes steel hard and tough. Look for those words on the shaft of the tool, or the name of a famous maker that sells tools with a lifetime warranty. Avoid chrome plated tools, the chrome is too hard to file and often flakes off, it usually hides an inferior grade of steel.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">Choosing the correct shaft. Square shafts are really cool because a wrench can be used on the shaft to help turn the screw if it is really stuck. The longer the shaft, the easier the tool gets to use.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">When you twist the screwdriver, your hand keeps making tiny errors of position as it tries to maintain the blade in a vertical position in the slot of the screw. Short shafts translate these tiny errors into big changes of angle, whereas long shafts make the angle errors smallest. Use the longest shaft you can for the job.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">Handles are also important because through the handle, your hand applies the twist. The fatter the handle the greater the turning power your hand has, because it is all about that radius as a lever principle again.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';"> <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">For comfort, the handle should have a smooth flat end that fits your palm. From my experience of fifty years, smooth almost cylindrical handles are best. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">The worst handles have serrated rubber grips that become irritants, and domed tops that injure the palm when heavy pressure is applied.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><br />
</div></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">Proper use means pressing down with the handle while twisting the thing at the same time. If that handle tapers to the shaft, your fingers have less torque, and they tend to slide down. The flat top allows maximum pressure with comfort, while a long straight cylinder gives best grip for the fingers. Two handed is easy if the handle is big. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">One hand on the top for position and pressure, the other on the handle for turning. If you need more grip, put on a pair of rubber kitchen gloves.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">Most of the operation of a screwdriver needs little power, so usually I press lightly with the top and use my other hand</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'WP TypographicSymbols';">=</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">s fingers to spin the shaft. No wrist fatigue, faster spinning. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">Turning it one handed, press lightly at the top, and spin the handle with your fingers until you need to apply more torque and begin using your wrist.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">About paint in the slot and other problems like partly worn grooves. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">With your sharp ended screwdriver right at the end of the slot, angle it slightly and tap with a small hammer on the side of the blade to drive the paint from the groove. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">This sliding the blade into the slot from the side gives a good fit and better turning due to the tighter fit in the slot. Badly worn screws can be cut with a hacksaw blade to make a fresh groove to turn with. If you do this do not make much of a cut because you are also weakening the already compromised head.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">Another trick once the screwdriver is correctly positioned in the slot is to give a sharp rap on top of the handle. this shocks the screw threads in the holding material and frequently makes the removal easier. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">It is not illegal to use WD40 on a screw overnight if it is very resistant.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">It soon becomes obvious that a completely equipped person has a multitude of screwdrivers. Long shaft, short shaft, medium shaft. Robertson, Phillips, Torx, Star, Flat blade, and more esoteric designs abound. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">Not to mention broken screw extractors, small hacksaw blades, and so forth.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">For those handy types that like to shop for, buy and use tools </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'WP TypographicSymbols';">B</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';"> this is a good thing.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">For the rest? <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">Hire a handyman </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'WP TypographicSymbols';">B</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';"> or marry one. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">For the right woman, I can be had.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">Next post? </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';"><br />
</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">All about the screws these things turn. And the slots in them that help or hinder the worker.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: widow-orphan;"><br />
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<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';">Here is a picture of three of my stock of screwdrivers. One is an antique from the 1930's the other two are new with a capacity for quickly changing the tip to match the screw to be rotated. Note that all have fairly long shafts for the size of the tip.</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: 'Bookman Old Style';"><br />
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4515568694094550474.post-62838903868535928462011-02-27T22:58:00.000-08:002011-02-27T23:02:15.238-08:00The bandsaw died.Perhaps you were expecting an update about the bartered woman syndrome?<br />
Hah!<br />
The paint has to dry first. Actually it has to be applied first. So the pics will have to wait, and the story will continue later.<br />
<br />
Meanwhile back at the ranch, the bandsaw stopped starting.<br />
At first it was thought to be a problem with the switch.<br />
The saw is twenty um years old and the switch was maybe getting tired?<br />
<br />
So we took it apart and saw that it was literally choked with decades of fine dust and the lever arms could no longer travel far enough for the contacts to meet and pass electricity.<br />
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The air compressor took care of the dust problem, and the switch was reassembled.<br />
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But it was installed in an inconvenient location so we decided to put it up where it was easier to find and switch off if needed.<br />
<br />
Here is the tale of relocating the switch from the lower stand to the back of the casting that holds the upper wheel.<br />
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Phase one was to acquire an electrical box to hold the switch. And step two was to drill and tap a couple of holes in the cast iron frame to hold the surface mount box. Look at the pretty picture and see the tap. Click on it for a bigger image.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgziqULnZi_gKBXjAkWc5n5LADfWCWSL79u6HsxHpszoSIDNkSoTYUvpItZb_d19KvLJnuLyvV3JPCf6Z8N23x8DyfR86N7CVzBKSCtki0elWEQOpeLvTPyefP8TV_fUGM1aW5fvMU1mUnX/s1600/tap+the+threads.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgziqULnZi_gKBXjAkWc5n5LADfWCWSL79u6HsxHpszoSIDNkSoTYUvpItZb_d19KvLJnuLyvV3JPCf6Z8N23x8DyfR86N7CVzBKSCtki0elWEQOpeLvTPyefP8TV_fUGM1aW5fvMU1mUnX/s320/tap+the+threads.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
I used a # 10 by 24 thread machine screw with 5/64 drill to tap the threads.<br />
Here is the box installed.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2tSKp-gks9vY9wIyHKwwqvQFAsPIecX8q3aMmaUB56tet-p0NlV7yVaWfrd1-XGg0I3QhdmF728fILnFIz8N4DmjOOxFcEXYLxP521mlDJsE9Orlcnd-5PGZRcImMicoN80H1wMKcpk8P/s1600/mounted-box.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2tSKp-gks9vY9wIyHKwwqvQFAsPIecX8q3aMmaUB56tet-p0NlV7yVaWfrd1-XGg0I3QhdmF728fILnFIz8N4DmjOOxFcEXYLxP521mlDJsE9Orlcnd-5PGZRcImMicoN80H1wMKcpk8P/s320/mounted-box.jpg" width="292" /></a></div><br />
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You can see the box has plenty of holes and cracks to let dust in, so the next phase was a bit of sealing with a hot glue gun.<br />
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Here is the gun. A cheap one but it does the job.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi29GSFw6CP2aszNEN9_7N6lUscPVaTG_eHi0aG6CnqQILSMJrdsnWi98RhVghTYmPmqW3q9BYWa-lCDVg8R99rcYtJ2B3WIwUoS3ySnIuO8koMWgcte9a-Pb9v7hWVcoBet_-R7G5SAHzg/s1600/ye-glue-gun.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi29GSFw6CP2aszNEN9_7N6lUscPVaTG_eHi0aG6CnqQILSMJrdsnWi98RhVghTYmPmqW3q9BYWa-lCDVg8R99rcYtJ2B3WIwUoS3ySnIuO8koMWgcte9a-Pb9v7hWVcoBet_-R7G5SAHzg/s320/ye-glue-gun.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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After sealing around all the cracks and extra holes with nylon glue, the whole box was covered with silvery duct tape. <br />
<br />
Next the wire from the motor was lead through the stand and shielded with a plastic fitting so it wouldn't chafe.<br />
I rewired the switch and assembled the interior by attaching the ground wires first.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmdN7gc3RHRkXzooYTyTIHWblKCvdw6NIODKvdsQ0oqUbz1TKmxntrVHZ1RhrkgYb9ra1Ut-tWWceyqL-Bz4UzKZ-_cGI29y861GaEOU4YvDGYrEWYlJnQTKSovDmp79WIZL3fKm3CVoKA/s1600/ground-first.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmdN7gc3RHRkXzooYTyTIHWblKCvdw6NIODKvdsQ0oqUbz1TKmxntrVHZ1RhrkgYb9ra1Ut-tWWceyqL-Bz4UzKZ-_cGI29y861GaEOU4YvDGYrEWYlJnQTKSovDmp79WIZL3fKm3CVoKA/s320/ground-first.jpg" width="254" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCAeN6jPlI7WV9iAm20Pd1He-_Rvj6N7hMGfFK0ASk74uD7sq7Y4fW_yTeqxCZNBS54_zvgBD0Ac9AQd6pIyJqlml5nSXYkZPb2CiuWDBlZcflHau9O1bUTzVCbI_8dXFnpi4YVA5LhyphenhyphenwQ/s1600/pass-through-safely.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCAeN6jPlI7WV9iAm20Pd1He-_Rvj6N7hMGfFK0ASk74uD7sq7Y4fW_yTeqxCZNBS54_zvgBD0Ac9AQd6pIyJqlml5nSXYkZPb2CiuWDBlZcflHau9O1bUTzVCbI_8dXFnpi4YVA5LhyphenhyphenwQ/s320/pass-through-safely.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<br />
When I connect wires I try to arrange the stripping and sconnectors so that there is no naked wire available to make accidental contact.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtwH9LJIlqv64g_PNeLrIlzhn4HFDU3m1_EYxMbthLjZuEXB7SxWQQuNvN98ILkhj0YmD2sVZtLZeNUhRYUovR1fhuVCQMXl8vuBProFteaEfdwLWoO853EStUJXbZrj_MUYKTXB3yLvcj/s1600/wire-detail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="319" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtwH9LJIlqv64g_PNeLrIlzhn4HFDU3m1_EYxMbthLjZuEXB7SxWQQuNvN98ILkhj0YmD2sVZtLZeNUhRYUovR1fhuVCQMXl8vuBProFteaEfdwLWoO853EStUJXbZrj_MUYKTXB3yLvcj/s320/wire-detail.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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After testing the switch, the final assembly proceeds, sealing the cracks with duct tape on top of the glue seals.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjw_MtVjV3gm4QZFMLqEJhnQrh1TQjcThWMhM-Px8G6htFECzb7NqeBlq56CJVghe9rO4jQQh1__1jqN7vQS0xVXfaVpqIBZBDZtpqs4EANToBhgaXWMDNOx4ZGwMuHZY89qvdQQEUUWLN/s1600/installed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjw_MtVjV3gm4QZFMLqEJhnQrh1TQjcThWMhM-Px8G6htFECzb7NqeBlq56CJVghe9rO4jQQh1__1jqN7vQS0xVXfaVpqIBZBDZtpqs4EANToBhgaXWMDNOx4ZGwMuHZY89qvdQQEUUWLN/s320/installed.jpg" width="232" /></a></div><br />
<br />
And there it is. A relocated switch that is safer because the machine operator does not have to seek at belt level for the thing is he or she wants to switch off quickly.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4515568694094550474.post-12250713448291001942011-02-26T23:11:00.000-08:002011-02-26T23:11:21.232-08:00Barter BuildingSo in the actual construction of the vague drawing, there are a few steps that are obvious.<br />
First - make the measurements of the location for installation, and determine critical dimensions.<br />
Then figure out a way to make the item in such a way that it can be easily transported to the job site and erected with little difficulty.<br />
<br />
Make a cutting list of all the materials needed to be assembled. Figure out how to assemble it at the job site while making allowances for the uneven floor, and the baseboards, the existing pipes, the queer angles and assorted randomness of the job site.<br />
Preview the available stock and decide which bits to cut from which stock lengths.<br />
The idea is to avoid waste, make the best stuff the most visible bits, cut the knots out and use the clear, straight bits to maximum advantage.<br />
<br />
Amazingly enough, this takes time. I have learned to charge this time at the same rate as the other time I spend doing work like shopping, cutting, assembling, transporting and installing. At the end of the day - all I sell is my valuable time. And my time is valuable according to my education, skill, and experience in doing what I do.<br />
<br />
So here is a picture of the trial assembly of the bathroom vanity concept: It is a trial assembly held together with a few clamps to see if the assembly theory will work, and to see it in three D for the first time.<br />
<br />
Click on the image to get a bigger picture.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw0ufRmakgOQqHBthiYblMLITwd6Eh-1SmrKkYcLQXetKqIKA88q3s2AEkT-vrnvUwhKseV39lFm06sFVBbnEudu8h1OsXvjwQhN-sVOhGzVdtHMJzCnTHEx0Pn9UHxX6w_2dKCJkPG3hM/s1600/the-case-in-the-shop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw0ufRmakgOQqHBthiYblMLITwd6Eh-1SmrKkYcLQXetKqIKA88q3s2AEkT-vrnvUwhKseV39lFm06sFVBbnEudu8h1OsXvjwQhN-sVOhGzVdtHMJzCnTHEx0Pn9UHxX6w_2dKCJkPG3hM/s320/the-case-in-the-shop.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<br />
<br />
And the three quarter view<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUfPfConMYslZxiNbQAXZ9wxhBeBiTFGEXL95ebGLXaI3UdnxxQRJNjhLNhVVhAEjlwJELqd1DZRtiZWf0Eg-QXfFHgJPx1kQpDzczk6cAuDcgdX8hDCzUwhreQAdg8doLEWpt3rTWlNQ8/s1600/three-quarter-view-in-the-s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUfPfConMYslZxiNbQAXZ9wxhBeBiTFGEXL95ebGLXaI3UdnxxQRJNjhLNhVVhAEjlwJELqd1DZRtiZWf0Eg-QXfFHgJPx1kQpDzczk6cAuDcgdX8hDCzUwhreQAdg8doLEWpt3rTWlNQ8/s320/three-quarter-view-in-the-s.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<br />
It looks mostly white because the wood is pale, and the picture is over exposed.<br />
<br />
Check back for pics of the completed install and other cool stuff.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4515568694094550474.post-84506352274891163052011-02-25T10:21:00.000-08:002011-02-25T10:21:23.785-08:00Sensible Spending Spruce UpThe first thing we discussed was the eternal and infernal choices between wallpaper and paint for low budget renovating.<br />
Paint is almost always cheaper because of this:<br />
Wallpaper needs a good flat surface to show well, and also takes a lot of skilled labor to hang in spaces where the walls are not flat and the corners are awry. Lumps underneath have to be smoothed, and the walls need to be clean enough for the glue to stick. Wallpaper in bathrooms is always challenged by a steamy warm humid atmosphere. (Sorta what commercial wallpaper removers do to get the stuff to fall off the walls.)<br />
<br />
Next we discussed the obsession over smooth flat surfaces in relation to several of my years' experience renovating in France where the 200 year old village houses I mostly worked on never had plumb, flat walls that met at right angles.<br />
<br />
So:<br />
Paint goes on any texture of finished wall.<br />
Paint is cheap.<br />
There is no need to have only one wall color in a single room.<br />
You can even do stripes, shadow effects, murals, abstract, and more wild ideas like trompe l'oeil art effects.<br />
A primer coat solves most difficulties.<br />
Even large cracks and dents, and holes can be filled easily with several quick setting compounds.<br />
<br />
So after I let her off the floor and released the choke hold she agreed that paint would be used rather than wallpaper.<br />
<br />
So we raced off to the Home Depot for supplies.<br />
<br />
Where she got Shocker Number Two:<br />
<br />
There was nuttin' in the flat pack industry that would accept the (non returnable) sink she already had at a price she wanted to afford, and in a style that went with the existing mashup of style in her rented space.<br />
<br />
So I drew her a picture of something I could build her for the same price as one of the upscale flatpacks. So we scored the materials for the counter, the repair of the walls and paint for the room at under a hundred bucks.<br />
<br />
Here is the drawing:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc31wpzX3d9B-PINGbT__T1eTVjWkDY20fy2ZhU36QNYN7EYxAtD9CpuUNBAN0ZBJxc9uv5NbYts63GXfzTJXnmunWRX8t62Fe1T3H5p14tartgoVys535Mz1AM0ROwIRsGcrvhpwneoVj/s1600/Draw-the-concept-out.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc31wpzX3d9B-PINGbT__T1eTVjWkDY20fy2ZhU36QNYN7EYxAtD9CpuUNBAN0ZBJxc9uv5NbYts63GXfzTJXnmunWRX8t62Fe1T3H5p14tartgoVys535Mz1AM0ROwIRsGcrvhpwneoVj/s320/Draw-the-concept-out.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<br />
We bought a four foot piece of counter top and six pieces of knotty pine 1x4 which I was allowed to pick over and arrive at six pieces of pretty well clear pine for the frame of the sink counter, and I had some recyclable panels for the rest back at the shop I hauled in from the trash pile at our loading dock.<br />
<br />
Here is the first trial fit of the sink in the counter top:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgIpz8lRfz0kPdnU6GHbYcAlcLAn4pv6VgKE9EIKEYu9RFxDj9sm4aXTGmUf0TRwl02mkf5tsJeiuTag-WCHcbVovC2pwxpQqivfYTRaTBUHXx39OaA7la4nXWAa2vzIWM1-Ml0vAsDG0m/s1600/the-sink-in-the-top-trial.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgIpz8lRfz0kPdnU6GHbYcAlcLAn4pv6VgKE9EIKEYu9RFxDj9sm4aXTGmUf0TRwl02mkf5tsJeiuTag-WCHcbVovC2pwxpQqivfYTRaTBUHXx39OaA7la4nXWAa2vzIWM1-Ml0vAsDG0m/s320/the-sink-in-the-top-trial.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<br />
Tune in tomorrow as we continue the adventure.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4515568694094550474.post-53160528656129129532011-02-24T23:11:00.000-08:002011-02-24T23:11:08.995-08:00Barter Bathroom BetteringSo - here was the problem. My barter partner has this bathroom she wanted to refresh and it had some really bad problems. Plus she did a Bad Thing.<br />
<br />
On impulse she purchased this gorgeous multicolored made in Mexico bathroom sink. Without considering how it would be inserted into the bathroom at minimal cost.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU5sW8bNuu7suG3Zrg-vKGVU2YilHKCmJbDD5WfhrGA2xyehGcXWgvzcihyfc8nJDr8-WjJe6s-Bm3Y6vJQc3c84aGLNLLYmp73urfBf8aiFqNQK8QADE5RlW1E3atltTz4zWOZfaEmjds/s1600/the-impulse-sink.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU5sW8bNuu7suG3Zrg-vKGVU2YilHKCmJbDD5WfhrGA2xyehGcXWgvzcihyfc8nJDr8-WjJe6s-Bm3Y6vJQc3c84aGLNLLYmp73urfBf8aiFqNQK8QADE5RlW1E3atltTz4zWOZfaEmjds/s320/the-impulse-sink.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<br />
The bathroom had the following 'features':<br />
<br />
An uneven hardwood floor with several very old coats of paint on its wavy, cupped board surface.<br />
The walls did not meet at right angles.<br />
The floor was neither flat nor level.<br />
There were a multitude of serious cracks in the plaster (not sheet rock) walls which had a sort of horsehair layer under the plaster against the lath.<br />
That plus a large number of nails and other fasteners in the material that had held other decorations over the years.<br />
The full size claw foot bath tub with a shower curtain surrounding it was OK but the sink, a relic from the original construction was well past eighty years old. The enamel in its cast iron bowl was mostly worn through, the replacement faucet handles were scummy beyond repair, and the under sink pipes were a hodgepodge of replacements from galvanized originals to copper replacements - all still in place.<br />
<br />
And now a nice shiny new ceramic sink intended for a counter drop in type of installation and the original install being a Harvey Wall Hanger. Made me want to bang a few walls and have a Harvey Wall Banger to boot.<br />
<br />
And a really tight budget plus she is talking WALLPAPER and an off the shelf el cheapo melamine flatpack counter to hold the sink off the floor...<br />
<br />
What to do?<br />
<br />
Tune in tomorrow and see how your guesses match what I counseled and later implemented for a refreshing low budget improvement.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4515568694094550474.post-66659834584424411652011-02-23T22:12:00.000-08:002011-02-24T23:19:12.702-08:00Barter ManiaSo - I confess its been a while, but I have been busy expanding my hobby operation to a small studio in the Mile End part of the Plateau area in Montreal.<br />
<br />
And all that activity has me in need of the occasional massage for therapeutic purposes.<br />
<br />
And that in turn brought my attention to a great masseuse who is an addict of the barter system who was advertising on Craig's List - a source of many goodies..<br />
<br />
So we struck a deal.<br />
She buys the materials. I do the work, and barter the work value I do for the massage value she does.<br />
<br />
Her rented studio is a couple blocks from mine and needed a substantial makeover from the shabbily neglected apartment it used to be. A first focus was the kitchen which it seemed had not been touched or visited by the landlord since before World War Two.<br />
<br />
Check out the before pictures to get a look at the state of affairs with the kitchen counter. Yes a new top, but under the counter successive paint jobs had prevented drawers from closing, and two doors were now missing, the openings covered by really gross red cloth.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKaan7GNL1zrAUpNI-E756EqVwGM8mwgEmoPbAO_skdQ1RHDOLrYrUJXPHDQ1LdEcp6TYCNoBSN-wodgdCQTdFezy3bUqx6wsojW5UDUIiOmvK1rv66n-NvYwRZMt7OIP2jFiQE7g9BXVV/s1600/before.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKaan7GNL1zrAUpNI-E756EqVwGM8mwgEmoPbAO_skdQ1RHDOLrYrUJXPHDQ1LdEcp6TYCNoBSN-wodgdCQTdFezy3bUqx6wsojW5UDUIiOmvK1rv66n-NvYwRZMt7OIP2jFiQE7g9BXVV/s320/before.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
So I did a quick measure and used some recycled wood hanging around along with some used plywood from a packing crate to make some quick n dirty reproductions of the original doors. The middle door had jammed inside the casing, and had not been opened in two years until I applied my magic. See what was in there in the picture.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPXkVjGCjW_dJyUvVGCKTnExEfdGEr5DD-YxAOKIQvzg41HYflQQBKSpUZeTDxbslnzJDWcwfmqpV9zs74eWliztI1OeE8o4r-9QRfjCLoYf8GETQmi24i0INgQIJix54xNmnAYeLkCCGR/s1600/before-hinge-condition.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPXkVjGCjW_dJyUvVGCKTnExEfdGEr5DD-YxAOKIQvzg41HYflQQBKSpUZeTDxbslnzJDWcwfmqpV9zs74eWliztI1OeE8o4r-9QRfjCLoYf8GETQmi24i0INgQIJix54xNmnAYeLkCCGR/s320/before-hinge-condition.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
I also used a trick of the trade and shifted one of the original doors to the end of the three and inserted the new door into the space between. Subtle differences become less apparent using this method. The doors are actually plywood with thin pine glued to the surface to simulate the look of the original panel doors. A bit of gyprock mud simulates several coats of paint in the inside edges, fills gaps and softens the look.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4hGYNVnMuF8788I68NYmHRC24st-tdPCEozn9Q_14SuiM__Jnaxp5fyOAgGD6L_9QBFbCjVRd5kpIRaJHxqLbNxhvkVROcBYNLpvWyZNNUPtgWlt2OUnfkzXZl6zfToWzASrGwwvCGqbF/s1600/new-counter-door-before-pai.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4hGYNVnMuF8788I68NYmHRC24st-tdPCEozn9Q_14SuiM__Jnaxp5fyOAgGD6L_9QBFbCjVRd5kpIRaJHxqLbNxhvkVROcBYNLpvWyZNNUPtgWlt2OUnfkzXZl6zfToWzASrGwwvCGqbF/s320/new-counter-door-before-pai.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
I then recycled the old hinges and hardware to mount the new doors, and viola, after a coat of paint and removing some of the excess paint from decades past - a sorta retro look refurbished kitchen will appear.<br />
<br />
Check back in a couple weeks to see the stuff all painted retro white and when the top bit to hide the too big sink is placed into position. The sink actually overhangs the door under it.<br />
<br />
Does this mean I am getting Bartered Woman Syndrome?<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgae0YcO4xZr6tkwvfONLOpkke7lWsXs5vnwkGHBF4BmmVRYeL-ntLofW0OZ6FauffOnPRyT1DUpBLRRpYlHNdPi-0eM1HWGhXNX3ZSYiU6DUv5T4E4ysgXDF1DarPWuAIyKXPdQ9Kkc1qo/s1600/new-door-under-the-sink-bef.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgae0YcO4xZr6tkwvfONLOpkke7lWsXs5vnwkGHBF4BmmVRYeL-ntLofW0OZ6FauffOnPRyT1DUpBLRRpYlHNdPi-0eM1HWGhXNX3ZSYiU6DUv5T4E4ysgXDF1DarPWuAIyKXPdQ9Kkc1qo/s320/new-door-under-the-sink-bef.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4515568694094550474.post-72380796738269397032009-11-29T21:52:00.000-08:002009-11-29T21:52:14.489-08:00Putting it all Together<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVNxbOMXhxNacpD8aDHhi44xmDhN06QEMWg31YFS0qW83PaCIGzYQNJ0rYdEWd706JhxFeTGU3zr8qm4GtBnONEuSVtf6qpbGlqU6mbbQWN02Lf8Nm11WrfGgi1I5aIsJzZmu2DusofwxT/s1600/new+connectors.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVNxbOMXhxNacpD8aDHhi44xmDhN06QEMWg31YFS0qW83PaCIGzYQNJ0rYdEWd706JhxFeTGU3zr8qm4GtBnONEuSVtf6qpbGlqU6mbbQWN02Lf8Nm11WrfGgi1I5aIsJzZmu2DusofwxT/s320/new+connectors.jpg" /></a><br />
</div>The primary problem to making the sewing machine work was getting a motor control connected and the barrier was a lack of the specialty plug that connects the speed control to the machine. That power source also powers the light.<br />
<br />
The trick is that the power to the motor is modulated to vary the speed from zero to max, whereas the power to the light is constant at max.<br />
<br />
So I whipped the plug receiver off and took a look.<br />
<br />
Definitely not rocket science.<br />
<br />
I made a simple plywood cover for the hole to re-use the existing screws that threaded into the machine case. Next I used two different colored wires to identify the motor from the light power, and wired the junction box appropriately using a specialty plug receptacle and plug with one lug at ninety degrees to normal. After color coding the plug end to wire color, and assuring the wrong plug cannot be inserted in to the wrong socket by putting a bit of glue in the slot, the junction box can only be connected one way without the willful assistance of a hammer. <br />
<br />
If you do manage to plug it in backwards you get a foot control on the light and a full speed ahead motor. But no electrocution.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4515568694094550474.post-10232843589474710902009-11-29T21:38:00.000-08:002009-11-29T21:38:44.430-08:00Making it go the old fashioned way.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizgd1RSgJlf24SqBZIzfcrsWDQdMX8xTEbOG1riyqtHfo0GQL9Z-Bfjo3uRC2WQ7HMaZT8yal17-zbYSudXEEjCt08YN1Ec5_rtrS2T76YggadmwyxKI-DZPa43nHNBtidlhBZUVDSEFFJ/s1600/gas+pedal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizgd1RSgJlf24SqBZIzfcrsWDQdMX8xTEbOG1riyqtHfo0GQL9Z-Bfjo3uRC2WQ7HMaZT8yal17-zbYSudXEEjCt08YN1Ec5_rtrS2T76YggadmwyxKI-DZPa43nHNBtidlhBZUVDSEFFJ/s320/gas+pedal.jpg" /></a><br />
</div><br />
I found this old (about 50 years old) Mercury Electric motor speed control. Not that it contains any mercury, the name of the company is Mercury Electric, and they made pretty good resistor based step style motor speed controls, and this one is the much coveted combo foot and knee control.<br />
<br />
It was cheap because all the external wires were rotted off.<br />
<br />
But when I took it apart the rest of it was fresh new looking and un-corroded. So I re-wired it my way, using recycled computer connection cables suited to the current.<br />
<br />
It connects to the junction box which also has the line (recycled from a computer monitor) power cord.<br />
<br />
The junction box is a new grey plastic affair from Home Depot with new cable connectors for a dust free connection. The stainless steel top is new as well.<br />
<br />
Total cost about twenty bucks for all the hardware.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4515568694094550474.post-54223813378219297032009-11-29T20:47:00.001-08:002009-11-29T20:53:19.846-08:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXIDl07KVECsJiV9mymFr7qrSSiWxBX9RLpGs_o51i_7hyphenhypheneSwU_aWZ0hzu0QKluAv9Z7XegY_02SZQ96JuglZvVDRtz6PP7vG4Kcw76OpQOz6Y3nXp1U3M-fNbhlHZJEPFeCKPj9UqPfCt/s1600/P1010001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXIDl07KVECsJiV9mymFr7qrSSiWxBX9RLpGs_o51i_7hyphenhypheneSwU_aWZ0hzu0QKluAv9Z7XegY_02SZQ96JuglZvVDRtz6PP7vG4Kcw76OpQOz6Y3nXp1U3M-fNbhlHZJEPFeCKPj9UqPfCt/s320/P1010001.JPG" /></a><br />
</div>Thursday, November 12, 2009<br />
<br />
Being old, retired, handy if not handsome, and curious, I go to my apartment building’s garbage area the day before pickup. Pickup is conveniently every Monday.The end of the month produces a better selection of discarded objects.<br />
<br />
Last month I spotted an electric portable sewing machine. Thinking of the cornucopia of gears, levers, springs and an electric motor, I snagged it and brought it in outta the rain.<br />
.<br />
Probably not zinc or aluminum sez me to me as I listed to port slightly while carrying it. More like cast iron, but therefore a higher quality machine probably.<br />
<br />
Believing that sewing machines normally last about forty thousand dresses or about one lifetime past the original purchaser’s, I had high hopes for salvage.<br />
<br />
When cleaned it up and I hooked it up to some power all it would do was hum.<br />
<br />
“Hmmmm,” sez me right back.<br />
<br />
I whipped off the top and sprayed some WD40 on the gears.<br />
<br />
It commenced to run like a top, and smell purdy too.<br />
<br />
I tried giving it away but it came back practically the very next day. It seems the recipient's hubby did not think he could do the repairs.<br />
<br />
It is quite modern looking, has a flip out carry handle, does a selection of fancy stitches, and is configured to sew sleeves easily because the sewing head is on a sort of narrow overhanging platform the dimension of a sleeve.<br />
<br />
Fine Italian machinery, thought I, reading the maker’s mark - Vigorelli; like Ferrari or Lamborghini - but slower and quieter. A nice name implying a certain vigor to the activity of sewing haute couture - Milan comes to mind.<br />
<br />
But it was missing the controller foot pedal. Yes I looked but - was not gonna open a buncha garbage bags in the bins. Ugh.<br />
<br />
Generic controller replacements are listed on the web at about 25 bucks and up.<br />
<br />
No needle, no thread, no bobbin, no big deal.<br />
<br />
So I looked them up on the web, thinking - refurb, and use it.<br />
<br />
Better karma for me.<br />
<br />
Watch this space for the completed project. I am still gathering parts.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4515568694094550474.post-91385092144607008472009-10-06T21:10:00.000-07:002009-10-08T20:28:19.925-07:00Miter Cuts for Small Moldings<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5G35nC5Hw_Azu9YZjmNlh3DSti0zueuNaX7cz4aWEBg1JfA31PUZH2DZUJlRSlFDADU_1Jqucw7FjkoD0qGpH1lxrGbpN5_DbVZ_KZQPtbjB2BBIYVt4OukMhBnOlxL9F2mOZn-7KynB2/s1600-h/miter+guide.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5G35nC5Hw_Azu9YZjmNlh3DSti0zueuNaX7cz4aWEBg1JfA31PUZH2DZUJlRSlFDADU_1Jqucw7FjkoD0qGpH1lxrGbpN5_DbVZ_KZQPtbjB2BBIYVt4OukMhBnOlxL9F2mOZn-7KynB2/s200/miter+guide.jpg" /></a><br />
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<br />
Miter Cuts<br />
<br />
When you want to make a precise cut at forty-five degrees, it helps to have a miter box. I needed one for my recent project. I did not want to spend much, nor do I have house room for a dedicated power tool. One like the twelve inch sliding compound miter saw I used to use would take up too much space.<br />
<br />
So after a bit of a rummage in my parts bin, I came up with what you see in the photo. It is a leg section from a maple bed I mounted on a flat board. First I mounted it along the edge, and tried a few cuts. Then I changed my mind. The guide is now in the middle of the supporting board.<br />
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I designed it so it was a convenient length for my workbench to grab. The top has two grooves cut in it. They help place the clamp for the pieces to be cut. You can see the small traditional hand-screw design clamp in the background of the top photo.<br />
<br />
A clamp makes for more precision. The molding or frame to be cut cannot move when being cut. You may also notice the complete lack of any groove for the saw blade. That is because my design calls for the work to be held by a clamp, and my free hand is then able to press the saw lightly against the wall of the angle guide. This in turn avoids the slop and angle error when the saw rattles around in the typical narrow guide slot.<br />
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I cut the angle by hand with a Japanese razor saw. The second photo shows the measuring process. I trued it up with a low angle Stanley plane, using a machinist’s 45 degree rule to gauge the angle. When there was no daylight between the steel rule and the wooden guide, the angle was close enough for small work. I used an antique square to make sure the cut was at right angles to the board as well. Possibly close enough for government work.<br />
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With the guide in the middle of the board, you can place the item to be cut on the front or the rear of the guide, depending on which end is to be cut off.<br />
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Possibly not precise enough for large pieces, but for the small trim moldings I cut, it is cheap and effective.<br />
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4515568694094550474.post-48190926943375612352009-10-02T11:45:00.000-07:002009-10-05T08:27:34.159-07:00Clamp the glue joint<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYgonQr71pHcJNKnlo7IwZ_ifGGC5u6lIxpD9-m9IUuBXR2q1FMR0ggai_pulkbnSBBoFAEmL9zuTxtE-UCcH03V2W4T1phDLO3Vb0KJg3Oqjy8b7Gy8lcBsxhEqrYg23MjBSxJLgG31JS/s1600-h/ya+can%27t+have+too+many+clamps.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYgonQr71pHcJNKnlo7IwZ_ifGGC5u6lIxpD9-m9IUuBXR2q1FMR0ggai_pulkbnSBBoFAEmL9zuTxtE-UCcH03V2W4T1phDLO3Vb0KJg3Oqjy8b7Gy8lcBsxhEqrYg23MjBSxJLgG31JS/s320/ya+can%27t+have+too+many+clamps.jpg" /></a><br />
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<br />
<br />
When you glue things together, it is usually necessary to clamp them in some way, but the question is how to clamp, and what kinds of clamps to use.<br />
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I use many types, and as the top photo illustrates, you seldom can use too many clamps. And I also modify some of mine to allow me to apply them swiftly without marring the work.<br />
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See the above lower photograph where I have glued some recycled leather onto the face parts of a clamp.<br />
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To put leather facings on, glue first, clamp the thing closed and wait for the glue to set, then cut the leather to size.<br />
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What kind of is best glue for this application?<br />
<br />
In the past I have used white glue, contact cement, a heavy duty glue named Lepage Extreme Repair all temperature, and epoxy.<br />
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The worst was contact cement. It squirms under pressure and the leather can slip off the clamp.<br />
<br />
My striking mass now has its leather glued on with regular 24 hour epoxy (which is stronger than five minute epoxy and gives more setup time).<br />
<br />
The Extreme Repair gunk advertised to glue leather to just about anything failed in use on the striking mass. It is not shock resistant. If the epoxy fails, next I will try a glue called Gorilla Glue which is in the class of polyurethane glues that is toughest, and does not come off except by abrasion. But it foams up when applied and there are handling issues I want to avoid if I can get by with a lesser glue.<br />
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Learning is a process, and it cannot be done without the occasional failure. You can't fix it if it ain't broke.<br />
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When gluing things together remember these simple rules and apply the relevant ones. It is always a good idea to read the manufacturer’s instructions. They want you to succeed and buy more of their product, so they go to the trouble and expense of printing directions on how to get the best results. (Often enough they do the worst job in this area, because the space on a product label is very small.)<br />
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The most important things to remember are that glue is chemistry. Keep the reactions predictable by doing it on clean joints properly prepared, and clamped according to need.<br />
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Here is a bunch of experience (some bitter) driven recommendations for the glue process:<br />
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• Apply the clamps within the ‘open time’ allowed by the glue manufacturer.<br />
• Use clamps to draw the parts together where possible, not a hammer.<br />
• Use enough clamps.<br />
• Some clamps are used merely to force the pieces into alignment, not to apply pressure to the joint.<br />
• Do not squeeze all the glue out of the joint with too much pressure.<br />
• Stain before gluing. (I will tell you why later in a different post.)<br />
• Clean up while the glue is wet if possible.<br />
• It is possible to temporarily leave a glueing horn while making the part, attach or glue bits onto the work and then apply the clamps to these bits for the final assembly, then cut the spurs or other things off later.<br />
• Do not panic.<br />
• If things go pear shaped: stop, disassemble, clean off the glue, and start over. Once pressure is applied, the glue starts to transform and is useless to re clamp. The joint will be weak.<br />
• Clamping pressure can distort the work, so plenty of clamps distributed along the joint, all pressing evenly, is best practice.<br />
• You can tape sacrificial bits to the work to protect it, or to keep things in place before the clamping.<br />
• If you wax all the other areas, the glue will be easy to clean off when it hardens.<br />
• When repairing old broken joints, first clean off the old glue.<br />
• Glue is not a gap filler.<br />
• Read the label for drying times and observe them.<br />
• If the glue label says ‘avoid freezing’ and the glue freezes - toss it out.<br />
• Apply glue with anything but your fingers or a greasy rag.<br />
• Properly applied, glue is stronger than the wood it is holding together.<br />
• Do not trust to luck when applying the glue. I spread it evenly all over the surface to be glued. I use a stick, and get them from Second Cup disguised as coffee stir sticks. (I drink it black) so I figure I am entitled to one per cup. A thin even coating is all you need. After using the stick I merely break off the end and use it down to a stub. It is best to wet both sides of the joint completely with the glue.<br />
• The correct amount of pressure has arrived when you can see a small gush of glue squeezed from all along the joint. Good Gush is what we called it in my shop.<br />
• If you are gluing a porous wood, try coating it with glue and not assembling it but letting a thin coat dry on the surface after scrubbing it in. THEN sand smooth and glue it later. This will prevent the porosity of the wood from inhaling most of the glue and starving the joint.<br />
• Use the right glue for the job, the materials, and the intended use and working environment.<br />
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•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>TRY IT ALL DRY, BEFORE APPLYING THE GLUE.<br />
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This last rule is the most important.<br />
Make sure the fit is proper, your clamps are able to grab where they should, and the clamping pressures will force the items into perfect alignment.<br />
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Email me if you have a specific question you want covered.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4515568694094550474.post-6180548050343070292009-09-23T21:38:00.000-07:002009-09-24T10:45:53.807-07:00First Things First<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYe6LnRvu8eUi3kIzqXL7MV4YIVa0ZjJ1D1o7tl4hvKP6pdjS2Wfr_UyRCz3J8kA2yduEfNm-rxxdHhuZp75CHXbSfLug93d56IFQ863K_cFoNQFY38KK2f7KULfSt34Wp0HuuZ_2nY3SV/s1600-h/a+useful+striking+mass+in+bronze.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYe6LnRvu8eUi3kIzqXL7MV4YIVa0ZjJ1D1o7tl4hvKP6pdjS2Wfr_UyRCz3J8kA2yduEfNm-rxxdHhuZp75CHXbSfLug93d56IFQ863K_cFoNQFY38KK2f7KULfSt34Wp0HuuZ_2nY3SV/s320/a+useful+striking+mass+in+bronze.jpg" /></a><br />
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This blog is all about working in a small apartment, mostly with hand tools.<br />
<br />
My workshop occupies fifteen square feet of floor space in my apartment. It does not fold up and go away. It takes up a wall to hold a whack of tools, and includes a six foot long workbench I made about thirty years ago. If I felt like hiding it I could get a couple of room divider screens to hide it away. But I don't care to do that, it looks fine to me, and any visitors can suck rocks if they don't like to see it.<br />
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The workbench is more or less bullet proof. It is solid maple, weighs more than I do, but under three hundred pounds. You can see it in the picture to the right holding the work in one of its multitude of ways. Click on the picture for a bigger view.<br />
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Do I know what I am talking about?<br />
<br />
Sort of.<br />
<br />
I am self taught from magazines like Fine Woodworking, and even sold that magazine some little tips of the trade after I learned a thing or two. I worked in the film industry in the carp shop building sets, and ran an antiques conservation and restoring business for many years. I have made furniture and reproduced antiques of various kinds.<br />
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I worked in a modern furniture factory that was set up to manufacture office furniture in solid oak. I also produced a television series called No Room at the Dump about using the workshop to recycle discarded objects.<br />
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By inclination I am a recycler and modifier of tools, so here I will be talking about the rules, how to break them, and how to get excellent results most of the time, while having fun.<br />
<br />
So let me lead off with a tiny bit about wood carving. I have a bunch of chisels, and mostly one merely pushes the very sharp chisel through the wood to make the shapes desired. Sometimes it takes a bit more than a good shove.<br />
<br />
Between smacking it with an eight pound sledge, or the palm of your hand, is a range of other options. Wood mallets of various dimensions, and woods, are usual. Claw hammers are not made for this kind of work, nor are ball peen and other mechanic's hammers.<br />
<br />
But.<br />
<br />
I made a striking mass for wood carving from a piece of bearing bronze about an inch and a half long, and two inch diameter.<br />
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It weighs roughly 800 grams, or a pound and a half.<br />
<br />
It is small enough to hold in the fingertips and tap lightly but with authority.<br />
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I epoxied a piece of leather to one side to make it a softer strike for some instances. It is more comfortable in the hand when hitting harder to have the leather in your palm. It can strike with all three faces. The round one, the flat one and the leather one. It is a step up from cave man tools but essentially the same as a rock.<br />
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The bronze is worth about ten bucks, the leather a few cents, and a few more for the epoxy.<br />
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See the pretty picture? Click on it and see it enlarge. The striking mass is the round thingy with the brown leather top.<br />
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The carving just beginning, and I am using a large curved chisel to make the outline of the flag. It takes a big collection of chisels to be able to make a wide array of shapes with crisp clean edges. I have been collecting for forty years, and that big curved chisel is from the nineteenth century, with a handle added using a hose fitting as a ferrule some time probably in the twentieth century before I got it in an auction.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0